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23 July As a special honor, and for only the second time in history, I have requested the services of a guest writer for my site. Considering the amazing enthusiasm and intense feedback I received regarding my lengthy post about my Mexico trip with my family (two comments.. one from my guest poster!) , I have decided to fill in the gaps of my personal experience (if anything that could be classified as a 'gap in my experience' has any relevance...) with an account by our very own Mr. Wingard (haha.. Mom). I have been told that things happen when I'm not around. I'm not sure I believe it. I have, however, recently received this account which attempts to refute my position. Decide for yourself: Joe and I decided that we wanted to see some Mayan
Ruins - after all we were in Mayan country here in the Yucatan. We had
already planned to take an excursion to Xel-Ha as Nancy had described it
in such glowing terms and made it sound so inviting, I had to see what she was
talking about. We could combine Xel -Ha with a trip to Tulum, a smaller
ruins site down the coast from us, in one excursion so we decided to do
that the day that the rest of our party went to Cozumel, snorkling, As far
as ruins go, the premier site is Chitzenitza, very large, very old and very
impressive. The drawback to going there was the distance - up to 2 1/2
hours each way by bus so even though it is supposed to be spectacular, we
decided Tulum would do it for us,
The day started early - we had to meet our bus at 8
am in the Plaza Playacar, a small tourist shopping area next to our hotel.
It was hot and humid, even at 8 am and the big, comfortable air-conditioned bus
was a relief. Tulum, while newer that other ruins and not as impressive,
has location going for it. It is located on a cliff above the Carribean, an
amazing location, which during its heyday protected the inhabitants from the sea
direction. It would have been impenitrable from that side. Our bus
included people who were only going to Xel-Ha so we stopped there first -
the two attractions are only minutes apart - and dropped off those people who
were spending the entire day at Xel-Ha. We were advised by our tour guide
to use the restrooms at Xel-Ha and stock up on water. When we reached the "town"
of Tulum - and I call it that lightly - a bunch of ramshackle tourist shops
strung together, our guide, Pepe, who was actually Mayan, began his narrative
about the ruins at Tulum and about Mayan culture generally. To get to the
ruins, we followed a road, walking, for about 10 minutes. We could have
taken a tram but we walked. It became clear to me why we went to Tulum
first - the temperature was already in the high 80s and it was bearable but
getting hotter all the time. Once we reached the entrance to the ruins we
followed a very densely forested path to a kind of anteroom with ruined walls
where Pepe explained the significance of Tulum and how it fit into the
Mayan world. Tulum was a much later site and was still active at the
time Spaniards came to the Yucutan. It never came under the Spaniards but was
actually abandoned by its inhabitants. Pepe told us that Mayan culture did
not disappear nor did the Mayan people. The theory is that the population
grew too big and the lower caste people upon whom the burdens of building and
doing much of the work fell, rebelled and moved away to small settlements.
Pepe also told us that about half the people in the Yucatan are Mayan, many
nearly pure, who still speak Mayan, and when a Mayan baby is born, they have a
blue spot just above their tailbone which goes away as they grow out of
childhood. He also talked about the physical characteristics of the Mayan race.
As we walked up on the plateau where the ruins were located, Pepe told us about
the different structures and what they would have looked like and how they would
have been used. Originally the buildings would all have been stuccoed and
brightly painted. The Mayans had a very developed knowledge of astronomy
and mathematics and the buildings exhibit this with their placement. Everything
they built was carefully placed to face exactly certain directions and fit into
their picture of the world. Similar to Stonehenge these buildings were
built to have certain places where the sun or moon came through certain holes or
places at certain times. All very orderly and mystical. At the cliff side
of the ruins, there was an incredible wooden staircase down to one of the most
beautiful beaches I have ever seen. Lots of people went down to the beach
and took a dip while they were at Tulum. I can certainly understand the dip part
- it was terribly hot and humid. Our clothes were soaked. We ended up
sitting in a shaded area under some trees and watching iguanas for a
while. I was glad we saw the ruins but I think I would have appreciated it
more in the evening which we understood is quite beautiful. They light up
the entire area and it being up on a cliff, the sight must be quite
spectacular.
So it was on to Xel-Ha and we were ready for
water! Xel-Ha is a natural inlet from the Carribean Sea, with fresh water
underground springs bubbling up and meeting the ocean water. The name
Xel-Ha means waters meeting. It is a beautifully developed park with all
kinds of water features and things to do. We had been advised to eat first
which we did. The buffet we chose (food and drink was all inclusive)
was very pleasant, though outdoors. Fans kept it relatively cool and the
food and drink was varied and quite interesting. We needed to cool
down after Tulum so the break of sitting and eating and hydrating was quite
welcome. The grounds of Xel-Ha were beautifully manicured, though
still jungle. There were dozens of beautiful macaws just outside of
the restaurant and after eating we took some pictures of them. We got our
snorkeling gear and lockers and went snorkeling in the lagoon. It was a
great success! The only other time I had tried snorkeling, I had failed
miserably so I was stoked to be swimming around and looking at fish. They
put a life jacket on you which makes it quite easy to snorkel. At
first we did not secure the life jackets correctly and it got all messed up
but when we finally figured out how to work the straps, everything fell into
place. The lagoon had natural rocks in it and the fish tended to
congregate near the rocks. I had a ball in there but when I got
out, I had moved quite far away from where we went into the water and was
totally lost. I guess I got out of the lagoon on the other side, probably
several hundred yards away from where we went in. It took me some time to
find my way back to our original location and poor Joe was nearly frantic.
We then decided to go on innertubes from a long arm of the inlet where the
current moved you automatically toward the main lagoon. This was
supposed to take about 45 minutes. It took some time to reach the starting
area - we walked for a good while and then took a tram. At the beginning
of what they call "the lazy river" you put on a life vest and
they drop an innertube into the water and somehow you are supposed to get
yourself into the innertube. This was not easy for Joe and me as we
are both older and portly to say the least. We both kept falling out.
Finally I got going and started floating down the narrow river. It
was unfortunately not very comfortable. I had to hold my head up all the
time. Joe finally had to go and get a double innertube, meant for two people and
that worked better for him. The first part went fine but after about 3/4 of an
hour I was terribly tired and not feeling too well There was
a headwind that kept pushing us backward and we were not making any
progress. About 2/3rd of the way to the end, I was exhausted and we
decided to get out and walk to the end. Now we didn’t have any shoes as
they had sent our shoes down to the end, so we walked on dirt paths - not very
comfortable - for about 10 minutes until we got to main path and then
for about 15 minutes to the place where we picked up our shoes etc.
It was getting late and we had to meet the bus at 5 pm so we got our stuff out
of the lockers, had a cold drink - God knows we needed one! - and met the
bus. We were tired and hot but it was a good day. Both of us fell asleep
on the bus back to Riu Tequila. We slept like rocks that night.
Thank you, oh honorable Mom, for your quick response to my call for assistance. You enrich our very beings with your generous sharing of time and exposition of amazing detail in ways that only future generations of scholars will have the pleasure of understanding.
17 July
As many of you know, I recently embarked with my family on a
trip to Quintana
Roo in Mexico for a week long vacation at the Rui Tequila resort in Playa del
Carmen. If you don't know about it yet, I would highly suggest taking a
look at the photo albums I posted from the trip about a week ago. It was
a beautiful place and quite an amazing experience. I've included a bunch
of links to pages about thing I'm discussing if you're interested in a little
more information.
Let's start with the concept that I have not left the country for over a
decade. Last I left the US, I was only 14 and on a trip to Denmark.
I had to get a new passport (my office laughed at me when I showed them my
passport from when I was 14 (wearing my Ren and Stimpy shirt!!)) and had to
alert the local authorities that my car was not an abandoned drugie theft (not
really).
Prior to going down to Mexico, I had a couple of days at home to spend time
with Mom and some local friends (I spent some nice time with Michael-Scott,
Jon, Jason, and Kara). I had a lovely dinner MS and then lifted some
kettlebells together (his recent obsession) and watched some jdramas and ate
"frozen dessert" with him and Ginger. Kara and Jason and I went
kayaking in the Channel Islands harbor and went out for a kick ass sushi dinner
- one of the first times I've had the pleasure of ordering the "Chef's
Choice" Solid. Afterwards, Jon, MS, Jason, Kara, Ryan, and
Laura (Ryan's recent fiance!) spent some time back at their place, watching
some Planet Earth and just hangin' out. It was really great to get to
spend time with everyone. Makes me realize how much I enjoy my friends,
really!
Mom, Joe and I drove down to Van Nuys to take the airport shuttle at like 5:00
AM the next morning. We met Leah and Chris and the rest of the troop
(Nancy and Alex Mireles and their family (and a good part of their extended
family) & Danny and Veronica and their children) at the airport. The
lines at the Delta terminal were absolutely amazing considering it was before 8
AM on a Sunday morning. In classic Nancy fashion, everyone was lined up
and being processed in good order. The flight down to Cancun was about
4.5 hours. Flying into Cancun was quite something: it's jungle, jungle,
jungle, then you're landing on a runway and it feels like it's in the middle
of, well, the jungle. We waited in customs for a bit to be processed and
admitted then we went out to wait for the bus which would take us down to the
resort. The level of tourism was amazing - immediately outside the
airport more than 100 services and offers came flying at us: car rentals,
excursions, vacation packages, timeshare opportunities. It was quite warm
outside and very humid and the bus depots were busy with the newly arrived
travellers from all over the world. Finally our bus arrived and we were
on our way down to the resort.
It was about an hour trip, or so, as we had to stop at several other resorts to
drop off passengers. The area is absolutely amazing. It's as though
the entire highway is built around these tour buses: moving people from the
airport to their little resort safe haven. All the stores on the side of
the road seem to support the tourist economy: building supplies, restaurant
supplies, bulk furniture opportunities. And then every now and then, out
in the middle of the jungle in the distance was a little shack that you could
only assume was a holdout local who wasn't buying into the tourism game.
There were literally dozens of these monumental resorts, each with more
impressive, grand entrances than the last. And they were just plopped in
the middle of the jungle. I figured that if you happened to wander off
the grounds into the jungle for just a few feet, you'd likely be eaten by
dinosaurs in short order.
"If you come to our resort, guess what? You're staying the whole
week."
We arrived at the Riu Tequila in the early evening and the whole lot of us
were starving, so, after dropping our carry-on items in our room (the luggage
was moved for us), we all met in the main dining room. It was a huge
affair, pretty well documented in the Rio Tequila picture album. Several
hundred tables for two that were attached and removed as parties were larger
and smaller. The food was generally pretty average, but there was almost
at least a couple dishes at every meal that were pretty stand-out. The
good news was that there was always a huge variety. Literally everything
from pizza and pasta at every dinner, to cactus salads (the cold salads, many
of us agreed, were a highlight) and other more traditional Mexican fare.
The resort was pretty neat - everything was included in the price of entry, so
all food and drinks were part of the deal. There were bars spread
throughout the campus, including a 24 hour sports bar and a swim-up poolside
bar. The rooms even had fully stocked bars, including self-serve vodka,
rum, tequila, gin, and brandy, not to mention beer (Corona) and soda in the
fridges. The landscaping was very much like the local jungle - very thick
and pretty natural, if quite a bit more manacured. The pictures really
show off the resort itself - so I'd check them out if you haven't already.
Each night, after dinner, there was an evening show at the on-campus
theatre. The shows were maybe not the most interesting things (some were
pretty cool), but it was a good time to get together in a group and share our
daily experiences and have some drinks together. The first night was no
exception and probably one of my (and many other's) heaviest drinking
nights. The younger crowd was up until at least 1 or 2 that first night,
heading into the little disco ("La Pinata") for some afterhours
dancing and revelry.
Day 2 was a lazy one. Early awakening, but relaxed. Checking out
the beautiful pool at the Riu Tequila and lunch at the pool side dining
area. Pretty much took the day off to "recover" from the trip
down. I did some walking out to the beach and checked out our neighboring
Riu resort, the Riu Yucatan. The area where we were housed a battery of
resorts - 6 Riu's and probably a dozen others. I think dinner that night
had a Mexican theme, so there was a little more in the way of specialty local
dishes (which I thought was some of the better food offered). The show
that night was a Grease themed show, where they sang songs from Grease and
showed clips from the musical or film. It was a pretty early night for
everyone.
Day 3 was not so idle. Mom, Joe, Leah, Chris, and I took a walk into the
town of Playa
del Carmen Tuesday morning. It's about a 20 minute walk out there, and
while it was quite warm (as it was throughout the trip - sweaty was pretty much
a constant state for the full week, so I won't mention it again) we
survived. The coffee snobs that we are, one of our top priorities in this
shopping hell was a cafe. Leah and Chris, always prepared with the local
tourist information, knew of the two spots in the town that were our best
choice for a superior cup of joe to the swill that was offered at the
resort. Playa del Carmen (at least the tourist district that's within
walking distance of the beach and the resorts) is literally hundreds and
hundreds of shops, each boasting callers trying to get the innocent
tourist-passer-by's attention. At every corner, there were 10+ merchants
vying for your attention.. and money. Silver jewelry shops (there must
have been 50 of them), trinket stores, "tequila outlets", bars,
ridiculously overpriced restaurants (one bar open to the street had Linguini
with Shrimp advertised for 280 pesos (about $28)), each luring you in with
refreshing air conditioning and "the best prices in town". It
was truly surreal. The economy survives solely because people come and
spend 10x or 100x the cost of production on touristy goods and services.
Worth noting: I didn't buy a single touristy good or service, except for
the coffee at the first cafe we stopped at, which I offered to pay for.
Leah and Chris and I went on for lunch at a local (and yes, the kind of local
that wasn't catering to tourists) chicken place and managed a really nice meal
of roasted chicken, tortillas, rice, bottled water and salsa for about $10 for
the 3 of us. Lazyiness and impatient won out: we took a taxi back to the
resort (the prices for taxis to and from the resorts were fixed at $5 by the
local government and they stopped at specific touristy places to make sure the
rich outsiders could redistribute their wealth in the most effective manner).
The afternoon was spent at the beautiful beach. The water was beautiful
teal and sky blue. The beach was absolutely packed with sunbathers.
I've never seen so many people with such brown skin before (I mean, outside of
Africa). These westerners (and they were almost all, at least once,
fair-skinned) had spent so much time in the sun tanning that many looked like
they were, in fact, African. Dark bronze and bright red were the two most
common skin tones. I, fortunately never adopted either of those choices
and maintained my lovely shade of dayglow pale with effective use of sunscreen
and protective barriers (concrete suits, mostly). Leah, Chris and I
ventured a walk down the coast for a good half an hour to do a little
snorkeling practice and found a nice area under a large rock overhang to stow
our goods and jumped into the tepid, calm, and shallow waters of the Caribbean.
It was really great water to swim in and you could go out like 300-400 ft and
still touch the sea floor with your feet.
Wednesday, Mom and Joe went to Xel-Ha
("Shell-Hah": a protected river/water theme park) and Talum (a Mayan
ruin) for an all-day outing. LeaCh (hehe) invited me to go for another
little excursion of our own to the island of Cozumel to go
snorkeling at one of the most famous reefs in the world as a reward for my
recent bar passage and admittance. It was a wonderful trip and the
snorkeling was truly amazing. The fish swarm right next to us and the
plant life was so beautiful. The tour we took consisted of three
different stops at popular snorkeling and diving sites. At the final site
(when I was finally getting the hang of diving down to the bottom), there was a
huge school of fish (maybe 100,000 or more) that turned the bottom of the ocean
black. I was able to swim down to the level of the school and swim
through them and it was really a neat experience. They would flee, but
the effect was that I was practically engulfed in fish. A little scary,
really. The coral was so rife with biodiversity that I could have spent
easily 3x as long looking at some of the neat structures and ecosystems it
permits.
After our snorkeling trip, we wandered around the town of San Miguel on Cozumel
and found an exceptional lunch at a restaurant. We may have had the best
ceviche I've ever had - nice big pieces of fish with a wonderful tangy
dressing. It was amazing. We also had some really great dishes to
go with it. A traditional chocolate chicken mole and a local Yucatan mole
and a fish that had been prepared with tomatoes and a light tangy sauce.
But then it was time to head back to the mainland and meet up with the
others. Or rather, it was time for us to head back and crash
in bed for a few hours before dinner :)
Thursday was another quiet day that, for me, involved mostly walking around the
area and picture-taking. I took a long walk down the coast and took some
pictures of the coastline and beach. I went to the gym in the afternoon
and met the others at the beach in the late afternoon. I also took the
opportunity to check out some of the other local resorts, wandering through
them to see what kinds of amenities and features they offered. Riu
apparently has many different levels of resorts. Nearby were the upscale
Riu Palace Mexico and Riu Palace Riveria Maya and the more plebian Hotel Riu
Yucatan, Hotel Riu Lupita, and Hotel Riu Playacar to compliment our Clubhotel
Riu Tequila. Apparently, Riu also has a Grand Palace variety for super
luxury treatment. So the Riu Palace destinations were distinguished by
fancier construction materials, design and the availability of 5 different
reservation required dining service locations (still included). Also, I'm
sure the rooms were fancier. The rooms in the Riu Tequila were perfectly serviceable,
large and pretty well kept, but they weren't what I'd call fancy. They
were functional and attractive, but by no means luxurious. On the plus
side, they each had a balcony, plenty of space for luggage and storing clothes
and goodies, a big shower, huge closet, lots of chairs, air conditioning,
satellite TV (which I never turned on), and nice floors.
Friday was a big trip day for the whole family. We had an early meeting
time to accomplish our big trip to Xcaret, a Mayan themed eco-park that includes an amazing
diversity of entertainment opportunities. There is a focus on manual, non
electric, natural presentation and maintenance to go along with the eco moniker.
We snorkeled through the natural underground river (though parts of it are
connected together with manmade additions) which was really cool, if a little
crowded. Some of the caves went down quite deep and it would have been
really amazing to have had the freedom to really explore all the nooks and
crannies. The park has tons of activities available and the day went by
super fast - and we only did about a third of what there was to do. We
saw butterflies (check out my sweet butterfly pics), jaguars, puma, iguanas
(yes, more iguanas), monkeys, strange raccoon-dog-bears, a baird tapir (taking
a wicked crap as I photographed it, too), and giant sea turtles (I mean giant -
like with shells 1 meter in diameter), a mock Mayan village, a Mayan cemetery,
a beautiful aquarium, an orchid house (anyone surprised?), and a pile of other
things. The pictures really do this destination more justice than my
words as it was a total feast for the eyes. There was so much more to see
too - it would have been cool to have had a lot more time. We had an
amazing buffet meal that was part of our all-inclusive package. The
buffet was really something and quite possible the halo meal for the trip -
tons of good, finely made, authentic Mexican cuisine. The variety was
absolutely mind-blowing: maybe 60+ dishes, really, 20 salads, 7 soups, 10
salsas, 50 desserts, 30+ sauces and accoutrements. The day ended with a
highly reputable Mayan cultural show that took place in huge ampatheatre.
It was quite the production, but we ended up only staying for the first half of
the show - I think we had all had enough for one day by that point (it was like
8:30 at night and we had been going since like 8 in the morning). Xcaret
was an amazing destination. If you get down there, definitely go - it's
quite expensive, but it's a keen insight into Mayan culture and local wildlife
and plant life that I wouldn't have seen elsewhere.
Saturday was another quiet day. We did some wandering near the resort,
but mostly took it easy and Sunday was the trip home and saying good bye to our
new friends. Not feeling motivated to run around Sunday morning, we kinda
hung out in the huge outdoor lobby waiting for our bus after breakfast. Chris
took a couple cute pictures of me with Isabella, Danny and Veronica's youngest
daughter who was specifically adorable and entertaining. The bus ride to
the airport was kinda fun as I elected to sit with the young ladies of the
group and do my best to entertain the lot of them, showing my etch-a-sketch
skills, as well as my ability to play silly trivia games that no 12 year old, 9
year old, or 4 year old girls could care less about :)
Back in CA, I had a day before heading back, but it was spent at home. I
had a really nice time taking Mom out to a new Thai place in Newbury
Park. We had a lovely discussion and meal together and then went home and
met Jason for some coffee and picture sharing. Jason ended up hanging out
until nearly 3 in the morning while we chatted our lungs out.
Joe was kind enough to take me to the airport shuttle in Van Nuys on Tuesday
morning. My flight back to Seattle was uneventful, but the trip into
Washington was beautiful as it was so clear you could see all the tall snowy
peaks. They didn't replace my kitchen floor, which they were supposed to
do while I was gone. That made me a little sad.
I've also been really sick for the last week and I'm just at the cusp of
getting better - but it seems to keep coming back. Actually it's probably
the sickest I've ever been as I was completely stuck in bed for 3 days and have
spent several other afternoons near immobile. I really hope I'm at the
end of it, as I've had to miss some work and that's something I really can't
afford to do right now - since I'm part time, I don't get sick time or vacation
time - so the last 3 weeks have essentially been unpaid. The next couple
of months may be the most difficult, financially, so I'll really have to be
careful and frugal (as if I wasn't already being so).
It was wonderful to have such a lovely trip and it only makes me realize how
much I want to get the chance to do something like that again soon! I
know it may be several years, but I really had a great time.
10 July I just posted 6 new photo albums from our vacation to Quintana Roo, Mexico last week. Check em out.. no, really.. check em out! I'll post some verbage at a later date.. I don't feel like it now though :) Oh, by the way, these aren't all my pictures.. They are actually pictures from my camera, Leah and Chris's camera, my mom's camera, and Joe's camera... so just assume the ugly ones are mine :) And this only comprises about half the pictures we took! Good challenge though - try to figure out who took what (though the file names give away the different cameras: One Panasonic Lumix FZ-15 (mine), 1 Canon Powershot G3 (mom's), 1 Canon Powershot S3-IS (Joe's) and 1 Olympus FE-330 (Leah and Chris). Oh, and "Horse Repair" rules.
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